17 years ago, Rem D. Koolhaas took a risk to combine the fields of architecture and fashion. Thus United Nude was born; a shoewear brand that created an unbeknownst perfect balance between footwear and architecture hit the streets of retail. With even Lady Gaga knocking on their doors and collaborating with the likes of Issey Miyake, Zaha Hadid and Iris Van Herpen, they have proven that the brand has no plan on stopping. Their most recent collaboration with model Shaun Ross, launched a range of genderless shoes, showing the world again, the endless possibilities that the future of footwear has in store. Who knew that shoes could look this stunning and be so comfortable simultaneously.（→ in English）
-United Nude was established in 2003 with the creation of the mobius shoe and has been launching countless designs ever since. As the start of a new decade begins, what is and will continue to be a driving force behind the design for the shoes?
Rem: Our design approach has changed quite a bit over the years. In the beginning, we always put concept and form first as where now we are so much more aware of comfort and make-ability. Our goal for our shoes is to make products that can become its wearer’s favourite and therefore comfort has grown as one of our main priorities. This doesn’t mean our shoes are less interesting than before, but it means we’ve become better at what we’re doing.
-You mentioned years before that United Nude was experimenting with 3D printing; a technique you said was expensive and probably only to be used exclusively. As more time has passed, do you still stand by this comment or do you think it could be time for a 3D printed shoe to be sold on the mass market?
Rem: I still think that 3D Printing as a mass production method cannot compete with more traditional production methods such as injection moulding. Nevertheless, besides me just being realistic about the current state of 3D printing, I’m always open minded and optimistic towards its potential for the future.
Los Res Car
-As the shoe is a cross between fashion and architecture, I assume your approach towards design is very different from others. Could you explain the creative process you undertake when designing a new shoe?
Rem: I always saw shoes (especially high heels) as structural small-scale architectural objects. The same excitement you would get from a cantilevered building, I would get from a cantilevered heel of a shoe. Defying gravity is one of the most magical things to do in architecture, no matter at what architectural scale level.
-The store concept is also something you value, as most UN stores are custom designed. When someone walks into a United Nude store, how do you want them to feel and what kind of retail experience did you want to create for the consumer?
Rem:Also this has slightly changed over years, although it’s still mainly about experience. To create a memorable moment. To design something different, not for the sake of being different, but for trying something new whilst aiming to improve. The problem I have with retail is that it’s mostly too stagnant and therefore I currently prefer temporary pop-up shops or event spaces. I just love an empty gallery space and to create temporary vibes. I think that the entire future of retail should and will go towards this. Each store in the future will be set up like a gallery space and brands become more nomadic.
-The shoes are affordable for their rare designs. How are you able to create such innovative shoes whilst retailing them at a reasonable price?
Rem: This was always one of our main goals from the very beginning, “Exclusive by design, not by price” we would say, and this still stands today. This hasn’t always been easy as it’s all related to production quantities and where we produce.
-The brand has successfully launched in various countries in Asia. Why do you think there is such a high demand for your shoes in this part of the world?
Rem: I think the brand is popular in Asia because of its rapid economic growth and cultural change. Therefore, there’s also less retrospect than the West. When it comes to design there’s often a more open mind towards the new, the experimental and the unknown in Asia.
UN x Issey Miyake SS20 Collection
-The brand has collaborated with Issey Miyake, Zaha Hadid and Iris Van Herpen to mention a few. Is there another collaboration in the making?
Rem: We recently launched our first gender fluid high heel for men and women with international super model Shaun Ross. Besides that, we are also working on a couple of more local collaborations with designers in Los Angeles. As a truly content driven brand, we are always collaborating with multiple partners simultaneously.
UN x Issey Miyake SS17 Collection
-Many people encouraged you to start your own brand because the shoes you were designing didn’t look like anything else on the market. As a designer of a self initiated brand, what is some advice you would give to an aspiring designer aiming to launch their own brand?
Rem: Make sure you offer something unique. This doesn’t necessarily need to be a unique product, but could also be a unique marketing, or sales strategy; Ideally all three. I would also suggest not to start a brand without a real plan and substantial funding. A lot of startup brands don’t make it because of financial limitations.
-You are the nephew of architect Rem Koolhaas, do people get mixed up between the two of you? And are you tired of being asked this question?
Rem: Yes and yes.
-Tech-wear is something that has become a recent topic in fashion. But, how do you foresee the future of footwear to look like?
Rem: I think the future will be more and more utilitarian and tech-wear is totally about that. This is really great, because comfort and product engineering will continue to improve.
ILABO shoes
-You have previously designed shoes for Lady Gaga but is there a particular type of woman/man you envision your shoes to be worn by?
Rem: Strong and confident women and men.
-As you have a masters degree in architecture from the TU institute in Delft and The Netherlands is famous for being a country at the forefront of architecture, why do you think this country continuously produces innovative architects?
Rem: The Dutch didn’t have much and learned how to be creative to survive. They became ship builders and were the first to internationally trade by sea. I think it was that same spirit that made creative innovation part of the Dutch culture for centuries.
SS20 Collection: Square Sandal Hi Shoe
SS 20 Collection: Glam Slingback Shoe
text Ayana Waki
United Nude
Commencing with its inaugural ‘Möbius’ shoe, the brand continues to push the boundaries of footwear design by collaborating on innovative limited releases with high profile designers including IRIS VAN HERPEN, ZAHA HADID, and ISSEY MIYAKE.The brand, based in Los Angeles, is sold in over 50 countries worldwide, with concept stores in Amsterdam, Dubai, Vienna, Tel Aviv, Tokyo, Taipei, Jakarta, and Beijing.
https://unitednude.com/
https://www.instagram.com/unitednude/?hl=nl
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